Buddhas of Bamiyan and the Silk Road

Why isn't the cow helping them plant potatoes?!

Little girl washing dishes in the river

Henna hands and alfalfa fields. We tried some - it was good!

Littlest locals, waving to say hi :) 

I made it up the mountain with a skirt, cowboy boots and a headscarf!

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I am huddled under bed covers for at least another hour until breakfast is served, and the generator turns on in our hotel. It is very cold here, and stepping outside my down comforter without power or heat is out of the question. :) 

The city of Bamiyan is beautiful, but there is no electricity at all for such a huge valley. No running water either - just hand pumps. The hotel that we're at has a generator to provide all the 'comforts of home', but the reality of how these people live daily is hard for me to comprehend.

Our flight on the UN jet was uneventful, except flying over the most majestic snow covered mountains ever, and our landing on a dirt and gravel runway! Fun, rural, and bumpy times. We hauled our bags to the side of the gravel, jumped in the UN car, and headed to our hotel. On the way we stopped at the street bizarre for some waters and fruit. I know now: only eat fruit you can peel!!! The local oranges here are so sweet and perfect. Absolutely delicious.

Our hotel has a large gate, security guards, and a big sign telling everyone that weapons need to be left in our cars. No problem, I can do that.  

We also have to take off our shoes when entering the hotel. They have a large rack of flip flop sandals for everyone to wear inside the hotel if you don't have socks. Our hotel rooms overlook a large field filled with hardworking children, men, donkeys, and cows. Potatoes, wheat, and alfalfa are the main crops here. Potato cellars are build into the mountain sides all over the place. It's pretty incredible! Just beyond the field are the Bamiyan (or Bamyan - spelling differs frequently) Buddhas. Or atleast where the Buddhas used to be before the Taliban blew them up over 10 years ago. Sad... It really is still such a stunning and overwhelming sight. To think people created this by hand centuries ago, and lived in the small caves carved out of the mountain along side each Buddha. Such craftsmanship and beauty in everything here.

We took a drive about 15K outside the town to see the Red Tower. It was part of a fortress carved into the mountain during Genghis Khan's time. We hiked up to see it. I was proud of myself - headscarf, long sleeves, long skirt, and cowboy boots. I still made it all the way up there in record time. ;) The view over alfalfa fields, women washing dishes in the river below us, children waving to us from their mud hut homes, and the ruins of the castle were a beautiful experience.  (mom, stop reading now) We had to hike up and stay inside the white painted rock path. This area was de-mined and safe. I still have all my limbs. Don't worry.
 

The white rock hiking trail. :)

black and brown. oops.

The drive back to town was a favorite experience so far. The road is so bumpy, we have to drive very slowly. Everyone there walks everywhere, so we passed much of the town and they love to stare. Most of the men, especially the older ones, look so grumpy and mean. I decided to start smiling and waving. I had my headscarf on, so it wasn't like a devil woman was trying to seduce them... Every single one, as soon as I smiled and waved, broke into a HUGE toothless grin and waved back. It was amazing. The little kids were even more fun. This little boy was riding a donkey down the road, and he was so over the top excited to see us, waving, laughing, smiling!! We rolled down our window and he immediately says in very, very excited English "HELLO! How are YOUUUUU?!" It was the most endearing moment! We laughed for a good minute at that one. He was so adorable.

Ooooh what a doll he was :)

We headed to the Buddhas, but couldn't find the road leading up to them and ended up in someone's neighborhood. All the local boys came outside because we obviously didn't belong there. They were so excited to meet us, and one told us he would take us to the Buddhas. He was in high school and knew a little English. He said he was honored that he had Americans on his street. He jumped in the backseat with me (which is pretty risque!) and all his brothers/friends/neighbors kept punching his arm and laughing, giving him a hard time because he was sitting in the back seat with an American GIRL! haha! He took us where we needed to go and hiked through the wheat fields with us to show us the way. 

Every man we passed was so curious, friendly and welcomed us to Afghanistan. Every woman was very shy, and they all were carrying water jugs/fruit baskets/laundry baskets on their heads. 

All while holding children. It was beyond impressive. The people of Bamiyan are beautiful - they have the Mongol heritage from Genghis Khan's time, so they look very Asian, but with green eyes many times. Such stunning people.

Our new local friend walked us to this field. Thanks for the personalized directions!

Well, the generator will turn on in 10 minutes, so I should start winding down this long email. Today we will host an information session for 10,000 Women programs for all the women of Bamiyan. Then the Governor will meet with us to discuss how she can support our program and women in her districts! Exciting!

Governor Sarabi and the 10,000 Women ladies!

 I'm looking forward to another beautiful day -- each one continues to impress, amaze, and humble me. What a diverse, resilient, and beautiful world we live in! 

Lots of love to you --

Amy, the only blonde in Bamiyan