Kabul, Afghanistan - Lake Trips and Beauty

Refugee camps for Afghan citizens. People who have been forced out of their homes by the Taliban. They are living in squalor, mud, and without modern day conveniences... This was heartbreaking to drive past on our way to the Lake. 

Lake Qargyl. Beautiful - cabins surrounded the lake alike to any vacation spot worldwide. Such dramatic beauty.

Our security team following us with sirens and flashing lights (and my henna hands). Nobody mess with the blondes. 

I ordered a fresh mango drink. I picked my fruit, he juiced it. Absolutely amazing!!! 

The girls at lunch, lakeside. What a beautiful spot!

This was our lunch spread - they were smart to layer it with plastic. We are messy girls.

The surrounding mountains and Kabul's water supply.

On the way home, we passed the refugee camps. The women are washing clothing and dishes in the river across the street. I will never complain about washing dishes or clothing again....

Didn't sleep well last night? Pillows too fluffy? Too hot under your down comforter? Just a reminder how many people live daily....

This carpet, rug, pashmina, clothing maker invited me into his studio when he saw me staring. I was enthralled...

He dyes everything right there in his shop. Such vibrant colors!

The loom is weighted with rocks... From the street.

Showing me how he threads the smaller pieces 

The second story of his shop is his studio where his looms are

Beautiful clothing he's made. If I had a little one, I'd deck them out in one of these :)

What a beautiful day today has turned out to be.

We thought our trip to the outskirts of Kabul to visit a lakeside vacation spot was canceled due to lack of security detail. However, our driver came through at the last minute and we were able to go. We were in the front car. Behind us, we had a flashing lights, annoying sirens blaring, security car tailing us the entire way. 

It's so crazy how status works here. You have a siren, flash some lights, and traffic will move for you. We're not even traveling with police or military, but the Parliament. We have a laminated piece of paper in the front windshield, a crazy horn, a siren, and lights. People somehow move for us... which is ok with me. I'm fine with not sitting traffic, inhaling the putrid diesel fumes and raw sewage invading my personal space! I also just learned today that Kabul is the only capital city in the world with an open raw sewage system due to corruption. USAID put all this $$$ towards a legitimate sewage system, and the government stole the money half way through the project, so instead of enclosed pipes, everything runs in an open canal down the side of the roads. Amazing it doesn't smell worse... although, it's still pretty mild weather here.

Ok -- enough about sewage!

On to the lake.

We drove up the mountain and over a dam. A dramatic sky was closing in on us quickly, rain and thunder approaching... It made for some beautiful photos, and thankfully, it only rained as we ate lunch safely lounging on floor pillows on a carpet covered outdoor patio. There are cabins lining the shores of the mountain rimmed lake, just like any mountain vacation spot. It was stunning. I had chicken kebabs and a freshly squeezed mango drink. You go up to the "bar" and order your juice. I chose the mangoes I wanted, and the bartender juiced my mocktail. It was delicious. :)

After the lake, we did what any good women would do. We went shopping. Now of course, if you know me at all, you know I hate shopping... But in the name of new experiences, and the need to purchase gifts, I went along. Plus, the street is nicknamed "Chicken Street". How could I not check it out?

We started off looking for rugs. Our Afghan friends came with us, of course. I'm so not paying white girl prices! They helped me haggle everything. It was fantastic! We went to a few shops and I wasn't loving anything. I have to love something to buy it. 

All of a sudden, I noticed a tiny little door with looming, leaning piles of gorgeous rugs. I walked inside. The road outside was so loud. So full of fumes. Inside that door it was silent. The rugs are a perfect sound barrier. It was clean and empty -- I didn't see anyone. I hear a knocking sound to my right. Just past the leaning tower of rugs, I see a small man sitting behind a loom, surrounded with thick, brightly colored yarns. I was wide eyed. Curious. I felt like I was intruding! He noticed me quickly and probably noticed the silly look on my face of awe. He waved me inside his studio. 

Hanging rugs, pashminas, clothing, yarn, heavy, huge rocks (probably found on the side of the road) were tied to the loom acting as a weight as he weaved. He did not speak English, but he showed me how to slide a boat shaped piece of wood, laced with yarn, through the loom, creating each layer of rug. What an incredibly time consuming process. I felt really grateful for every rug in his shop. They were so intricate, so beautiful, so colorful. I bought two. He showed me where he dyes his yarn, how he spins the yarn. All with no words spoken. It was pretty incredible.

Tomorrow we leave for Bamiyan. I'm so very excited to see this part of the country! The UN is flying us out there on their jet. Hopefully it's an uneventful trip - the Japanese own/manage a hotel there in Bamiyan, which is where we'll be staying. I hope they serve sushi for breakfast!

I hope everyone is happy and healthy. I love you - miss you - write me emails! :)

xoxo
amy